Agi & Sam at MAN during London Collections. For their first major foray into outerwear for AW13 the duo decided to coin in on their joint reputation as playful provocateurs of print for the discerning English gentleman.
Blue and white porcelain wares moved from china plate to two piece suits. There were stuck on sideburns, many great beards, gilets, tweed and a small family of basset hounds. On the whole, very dapper, with a few royal blue berets (a playful F* you to the French?).
‘He lives in a house, a very big house in the country,’ Damon drawls as Blur plays during the finale. It is a fitting collection to be shown on the day that the entire crew from the men's shows are invited to 10 Downing St this evening.
AH+ spoke to Agi of Agi & Sam backstage, post-show and pre-drinks. (Although he says you may find him later outside the PM’s with an empty bottle of whiskey).
IMAGES OLIVER HADLEE PEARCH
WORDS RACHEL MILES
AH+: It felt like you had the whole English countryman comprehensively covered in this collection. What started this idea?
AM: Well, our collections are quite personal anyway and they usually come out of something that’s quite natural to us, or a chat or whatever. We always wanted to do a very English collection so we started researching and found out about Lord Bath, this crazy eccentric. So we were looking at him and all his wife-lets and how he paints how a whole wing of his house, and how amazing he is, and how he dresses. Looking at the aristocracy but in more of an eccentric way, rather than people who usually portray that as very stiff upper lip.
We wanted to look at that and everything that’s around that: hunting and shooting and farmers and just play it all together.
AH+: It’s still made street too, especially with the big puffa jackets.
AM: We wanted to look into outerwear this season. We’ve never really done that before. And again, obviously it’s quite important in outdoor endeavors etcetera.
AH+: Did you feel like there were any challenges in doing outerwear for the first time?
AM: It was a challenge but we’ve always wanted to do it. It wasn’t the worst thing in the world… I quite enjoyed it to be honest! We always do a lot of tailoring, but this season I think we really stepped up the tailoring.
AH+: Is that something you two will expand then?
AM: Yeah, we’ve always wanted to have the complete look, you know? I think Spring/ Summer is harder but like last season, it’s quite different because there’s more trousers and shirts and maybe like 3 or 4 different styles of jackets and coats.
This time we really wanted to show it as a whole and almost to appeal to other markets as well. In the beginning obviously as a print-based brand we were dubbed just as an East End London brand and we wanted to steer clear from that, and become considered as an actual brand.
AH+: You’ve got to keep it open, right? And you guys have womenswear now as well.
AM: Yeah, just shirts at the moment, and shirt dresses. We definitely want to do a whole womenswear mainline collection but I think for now… Because I come from a fashion background as I’m illustration, I’ve never studied womenswear, I’ve always just done menswear. So we want to learn and do it properly. We don’t want to put men’s clothes on women.
AH+: Where did the idea to get the dogs involved come from?
AM: It was just obvious – after all our research and looking at everything, it was almost like, ‘Why not?!’ And then we wanted to make little jackets for them, with our prints.
AH+: Future Agi & Sam pet-wear?
AM: Nah, I don’t think so! It was hard enough with those! We had three dogs all different sizes, so we had to make bespoke dog jackets.